Not-so-kinky Calvin

After all the hoopla about a racy billboard on Lafayette and Houston in New York City, Calvin Klein decided to replace it with this far tamer hot-girl-in-a-swimsuit ad. Boo, Calvin. Boo.

Kinky Calvin

New Yorkers are making a big stink about the racey Calvin Klein Jeans ad on Houston and Lafayette. It's basically a still shot taken from their too-hot-for-TV ad campaign shot by Steven Meisel. And yet, the billboard has been there for a while Klein is a bone fide purveyor of racy ads. The big names at Calvin Klein couldn't be happier. Menswear designer Italo Zucchelli agrees, "I think it is a fantastic campaign. That is what Calvin Klein Jeans is supposed to be. Everyone needs to be scandalized and screaming. That is what we want." Head of womanswear Francisco Costa says -- most likely with a hair toss -- “Please! It’s so, like, old news. Don’t you think we should be a little ashamed for even having to discuss? I mean, it’s great for us. So if you want to talk about it, let’s talk about it. But there was no intention of making that controversial. Just make beautiful ads. And they’re beautiful ads. And I think, you know, we’re such a forward society, but we tend to be a little prudish sometimes. It’s New York City! It’s the 21st century! Honey, we have to move on! We have to move on.” And even if a few sticks in the mud aren't moving on, they'd better get used to the hot-spot on Houston, because CK just released the F/W underwear ad that will replace the current threesome in a couple of months:

Enough said.

via The Cut and WWD

Quickies: The CFDA Winners, Glen O'Brien Sued, Adam Lippes Menswear RIP, +

The CFDA awards were last night. There was a tie for menswear designer of the year between Italo Zucchelli of Calvin Klein and Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders. Tim Hamilton also won the Swarovski award for menswear. [WWD] 

And the claws come out: Brent Publication, who owns Interview, is suing Glenn O'Brien after his departure. [WWD]

Steven Klein shot Bruce Willis and his model wife, Emma Herning, in sensual and somewhat disturbing spread for W. Seeing Bruce shirtless in underwear would have been delightful in his Die Hard days, but now? Not so much... [The Cut] 

Adam Lippes not only cut personnel, but also did away with menswear. It's a littered battlefield out there. [WWD]

Everyone's favorite heavyweight, Beth Ditto, actually had weight added to her body for her Love shoot. [The Cut] 

Shopping malls may seem so passe right now, but if they end up looking like the conceptualized mall of tomorrow, that could very well change. [PSFK]

Michael Phelps may have a porn stache, but he's still unstoppable. [TMZ]

Quickies: Margiela Leaving? New Faces at Next Month's Men's Shows, Karl Lagerfeld Hates Swans, +

Rumors are again afloat that Martin Margiela is leaving or has already left his Maison. Eventually, Mr. Margiela, publicity stunts just turn annoyances. [JC Report] 

Next month's men's shows in Paris and Milan should be a bit more energetic than last season's dreary showing. A slew of new and old favorite designers will show and present collections, which will hopefully amp up both weeks. [WWD] via [The Cut] 

Dolce & Gabbana won't ever do a diffusion line. When asked about the possibility of working with H&M 

Stefano Gabbana responded "No, we don’t need to. That kind of exposure could be dangerous for us." [Telegraph UK] 

Fashion types apparently love NYC's park-in-the-sky, The High Line. Calvin Klein is throwing a pary there this summer. Layman's would also probably love it if a) invited to CK's party or b) if they would open it to the public already. [WWD]

Karl Lagerfeld DOES NOT like swans. [The Cut]

Swine Flu strikes Vogue offices. That is so last month. [Gawker] 

Jesus Luiz. Shirtless. In a bathing suit. [Socialite Life]

A Vivienne Westwood penknife and a Natalia Brilli leather skateboard. Recession? What Recession!?[Selectism] and [Luxist]

Quickies: Jil Sander + Uniqlo, CFDA Award Nominees

Jil Sander is now working for Uniqlo. Rather than return to her namesake label Sander is instead overseeing menswear and womenswear for the Japanese brand. Burn for the Jil Sander label, good for us! [WWD]

What else was it good for? Uniqlo's stock price. [WWD]

The CFDA Awards nominations are out. Up for Menswear Designer of the Year: Calvin Klein's Italo Zucchelli and Michael Bastian. [WWD]

What's it like working with Valentino and his partner Giancarlo? Says Valentino: The Last Emperor director Matt Tyrnauer: "They also change their minds more than any people I have ever met in my life, which made the whole thing even more of a challenge." [WWD]

Speaking of the Emperor, he was on Martha Steward yesterday. The episode will air Friday, but apparently it wasn't as Valentino-m-g as the audience hoped. [The Cut] 

Quickies: Jay McCarroll's new documentary, CK's new steamy TV ad and more

Photo: Getty Images

Who cares about the Vogue documentary. Project Runway's Jay McCarroll has his own, too! The movie, called Eleven Minutes, follows McCarroll for a full year while he tires to ready his first independent collection for New York Fashion Week. Oh the one-liner possibilities! [Fashionista] 

In case there is any speculation, Valentino is, in fact, retired. He's left all design duties to newly appointed Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli (what a mouthful). Says V himself: "If I decided to attend the presentation of their collection, it will only be as a supporter of two people I love and who have been close to me for man years." [British Vogue]

Tommy Hilfiger and Markey Ramone, of -- who else -- The Ramones, are launching a clothing line. Tommy's brother, Andy, used to be in a band with Markey, thus Markey has known Tommy for 23 years, so, by the Pythagorean theory (or something), it's time for a rock n' roll clothing line! [Fashionista] 

Calvin Klein's new TV commercial is so hot it was initially banned -- even from late-night TV. Directed by Steven Meisel, the spot will now be the lead on the company's e-commerce site which launches tomorrow. An edited version will run in the U.S. while European countries will, of course, get the full steamy ad. [WWD]

How to cut costs in rough financial times? Model your own clothes. Matthew Williamson will serve as the face of his new menswear collection set to launch at H&M in April. [WWD]

London Fashion Week will get a little more manly this season. The British Fashion Council said Tuesday it has extended its show schedule by one day to add a program of 13 designers' men's shows on February 25th, the first day of Milan Fashion Week. [WWD]

Couture collections have been showing in Paris in all their extravagant, drag queen-ish glory. We see these $50,000 dresses and think "who buys them?" Reuters found out. [Reuters] And check out Style.com for the collections if you're interested.

-- SETH PLATTNER

Breaking Down Bond's Style: The Tux

Photo: Getty Images

Earlier in the week Popnography was obsessing about Daniel Craig's perfect package in his perfect khakis in the new James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace. And while we can't say that his package, or those khakis, have been forgotten, we're moving on today in our break down of Bond's classic style to the most synonymous outfit in the 007 wardrobe, the tuxedo.

Tuxes today seem like a chore to have to wear, but boys should remember that there's hardly an outfit out there that, when done right, makes you look as good as a tuxedo does. That being the case, here's how to do it without looking like a cater waiter:

The easiest rule of thumb for the tux is to just go classic. A traditional tux may scream boring, but if it's perfectly tailored with the essentials -- notched, peaked lapel, bow tie, cumberbun if you wish -- it's going to look great. Just remember that at some point in the night that jacket is going to come off, so keep the shirt pristinely white and slim on that body you work so hard to maintain.

Most labels out there do their version of a tux, the most perfect of which come from the likes of Tom Ford and Dior. But, look to labels like Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren for equally impressive tuxedos at a fraction of the cost. And speaking of price, just suck it up and buy one. What's the point of renting every time you need one when a good tux will last for years? Surprisingly, tuxedos are even versatile enough to wear with a cool tee and tennis shoes. So, again, lay down some cash and get your own.

As we noted yesterday, gays aren't always keep to stick to the classic, so if you're one of those divas who just has to steal the spotlight from the bride, here are some suggestions on how to update the tuxedo:

Instead of a notched lapel, try for a slicker, but appropriately slimmer, shawl collar. For your jacket (and jacket only) there's always the white dinner coat or a velvet smoking jacket, and, if you really want to stand out in good way, opt for a midnight blue tuxedo (for Inspiration, Gucci makes a beautiful version). Still dark, still classic, but with just a bit if snap. Band of Outsiders also makes a perfect hipster tux if you're one to go against the traditional grain. And, as we see time and time again on the Hollywood crowd, the long tie is now perfectly acceptable for a tux. Bond would never do it, but if you do, make sure the color and fabric of the tie match your lapel.

Now you know how to go both casual and chic like Bond. Next up we'll tell you how to elevate it all with the perfect 007 accessories.

-- SETH PLATTNER

Tastemaker: Kevin Carrigan

Photo: Spencer Heyfron

Out's November issue showcases our annual Tastemakers portfolio which highlights the hippest arbiters of style currently leading the charge at the forefront of the nation's ongoing cultural revolution.

From fashion phenoms to chic restaurateurs to dance company directors, the impeccable taste and sensibility of these men make our lives simpler, prettier, happier, and richer. Today's trendsetter is Kevin Carrigan:

As creative director for Calvin Klein and ck Calvin Klein, Kevin Carrigan oversees the brands styles of men's and women's sportswear, denim, underwear, accessories, licensed products, and even store designs. With $4.5 billion in licensed retail sales and over 230 shops worldwide, that's a lot of responsibility, but Carrigan takes it on with aplomb, approaching each season one theme at a time.

"It's extremely important for me to have one consistent message for the season that can be applied to different areas and different regions -- one emotion with many expressions," he says. "The process evolves from color to concept, moving from the two-dimensional to the three-dimensional form."

Carrigan studied at London's Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication and earned his master's degree in fashion design at the Royal College of Art, then cut his teeth at Nicole Farhi in France and Max Mara in Italy -- though his real taste for fashion developed while watching his grandmother, a seamstress, at work.

-- CHRIS ROVZAR

Previously > Steven Durbahn & Jonathan Morr > George Yabu & Glenn Pushelberg

Sexy Now: Italo Zucchelli divulges his secret passions

Photo: Getty Images

Creative director of the Calvin Klein collection for men, Italo Zucchelli was nominated in 2007 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America for menswear designer of the year. Raised in La Spezia, Italy, he graciously gave Out a glimpse at a few of his favorite things including his preferred cocktail (vodka tonic), guilty TV pleasure (Desperate Housewives), and the star he's always wanted to dress (Hugh Jackman).

To see all of Zucchelli's picks, pick up the November issue of Out, featuring cover boy James Franco, or head over to Out.com.

Paying for the label

Photo: Getty Images

Published in this week's DNR is the "Gen Y Wish List," a nation wide survey of 100 men, age 18 to 24, that tallies the top 12 labels gen-y males are most likely to gladly pay full price for. Listed by the percentage of respondents who ranked each brand in their top five, these are the 12 labels that young men somewhat surprisingly aspire -- and will shell out top dollar -- to own:

1. Polo Ralph Lauren - 17%

2. Giorgio Armani - 17%

3. American Eagle - 17%

4. Nike - 16%

5. Gucci - 16%

6. Abercrombie & Fitch - 15%

7. Banana Republic - 12%

8. Puma - 11%

9. Hollister - 11%

10. Tommy Hilfiger - 10%

11. Calvin Klein/ck Calvin Klein - 10%

12. Adidas - 10%

Sort of reads like a checklist for the local mall, right?  We'll dispense a bit of leniency given the age group polled -- some youngsters just need a little time before they reach fashion maturity -- but we also wonder what the list would look like if 100 gays were surveyed. We can think a couple from the list above that would be scratched off immediately, and we'd add a few obvious gay faves -- Diesel, D&G, H&M, American Apparel (for basics in all colors of the rainbow) -- but how about the rest of you 'mos out there? If you're going to plunk down the cash and pay full price, what are the top 12 labels you'd break the bank for? Let us know and we'll post the results along with our own, albeit not-so-scientific list for gen-gay.

-- SETH PLATTNER