Chatter: Yohji Yamamoto

“It’s the worst possible time to be opening, and I like it."

-- Yohji Yamamoto at the opening of his new Paris flagship on Rue Cambon.   

Quickies: Men's Vogue safe for now, Margiela launches pre-collection and more

Men's Vogue, thought to have folded yesterday, will actually be cut to just two issues a year. The carnage of the failing economy continues. [The Cut]

Maison Martin Margiela is launching its first pre-collection, Avant Premiere. The collection, which will hit stores in May, will consist of about 60 looks for both men and women, and will also include shoes and accessories. So...he's not retiring? [British Vogue]

Thankfully someone made it over to Seoul for Fashion Week. Rebecca Milner of JC Report gives a roundup. [JC Report]

Open for Business: The Yohji Yamamoto flagship on 4 Rue Cambon in Paris.

Smell this: Brooks Brothers New York for Gentlemen fragrance.

-- SETH PLATTNER

Sports + fashion, together forever

Photo: Getty Images

A new exhibition at London's Victoria and Albert Museum examines the romance between sports and fashion and its resulting street chic offspring, the tracksuit. Featuring 60 outfits, drawings, photographs, and films that showcases design elements, advertising campaigns, and fashion collections, "Fashion V Sport" reveals the ways in which sportswear has sprinted from the gym to the runway.

"More and more we are seeing fashion brands getting involved in sports like the Olympics or Wimbledon or the U.S. Open," curator Ligaya Salazar told Reuters. 

The show is divided into sections entitled "Dare," "Display," "Play," "Desire," and involves designs from high end names like Prada, Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, and Yohji Yamamoto, who have created looks for companies including Adidas, Reebok, Nike, and Puma. It also investigates the role of sports celebrities, like hunky poster boys David Beckham and Roger Federer, in popularizing fashion trends off the field.

"Fashion and sport share a long history, but close collaboration only began about 10 years ago after designers noticed ordinary people wearing sports gear outside the gym in emulation of the stars of the sports and entertainment worlds," Salazar said.

And here we were willing to give all the credit to Richard Simmons.

The exhibition runs through January 4th, 2009.

How to be a fashionable farmboy

Out's September fashion story "The Migrants," shot by Walter Chin, features some of fall's hottest runway looks and was shot on location at an upstate New York farm. We asked Out's editorial and fashion assistant, Brent Coover, to instruct us on the fine art of adding a few key pieces to your wardrobe -- without looking like a country bumpkin.

All Photos by Walter Chin

Dolce & Gabbana's equestrian inspired runway show featured tailored pants and luxe riding boots paired with chunky scarves and sweaters. The result encompasses masculine ease but isn't sloppy. Grab those loose knit pieces that look handmade, but not homely.

The problem with shearling is that it is so sexy. Who doesn't fantasize about a lumberjack or a farmhand? But on common boys or city folk, it can easily seem silly and like you're trying too hard. This Marc Jacobs jacket (above left) with shearling collar and lining, however, has a modern and fresh cut and color.

Playing with proportions is definitely something to take note of, though it may not be for everyone. Alexander McQueen's shawl collar cardigan (above right) is a prime example -- it would look great with suiting pieces or just a great pair of worn-in jeans.

Let's be honest, no one actually looks this good chopping up trees. Then again, no one wears head-to-toe Gucci while gathering firewood. But look at that beautiful leather jacket with fur collar! Definitely a must-have item.

Plaid, whether tartan or bold, woven cotton or knit wool, is a necessary purchase if you don't already own. It was around last year and by the looks of this Yohji Yamamoto jacket (above left), it really isn't going anywhere.

An entire pony hair trench, like this Burberry (above right), is a tough one albeit beautiful. It's a nice variation from the usual textures. Try a pony hair belt or pony loafers.

The great thing about these brown D&G leather cargo pants is that they have that worn-in look and yet the cut is entirely new. Check out the elastic finish at the hem. We've been seeing this on all kinds of trousers, including knit pants in cashmere, wool, and cotton, which was an overwhelming trend.

The lesson to be learned from this Calvin Klein look: feel free to mix textures, fabrics, and colors, especially when dressing in less than common materials like suede.

To see more from the shoot and other fall fashion, head over to Out.com.

-- BRENT COOVER

Yohji Yamamoto's Diffusion Line Hits Stores; (Capsule) New York Bows; Ashton Kutcher for Pepe Jeans; Thermochromatic Shirts Are Back; Tumi Gets Rugged; The Newest Fashion Powerhouse; Gay Romance on Project Runway?

Photo: Getty Images

Having waited a year for Yohji Yamamoto's diffusion line, Coming Soon, we can now stop fretting our perfectly coiffed heads and finally get our hands on a few of the pieces that have hit NYC store Odin. It's been a limited roll out thus far, but expect to see more pieces hit more stores by 2009.  [The Cut]

The (Capsule) New York trade show is going on now in New York, alluding to a few items we'll all likely be wearing next spring (because we are so ahead of the curve, you know). [Material Interest]

Ashton Kutcher is getting back to his modeling roots in the Pepe Jeans Fall ad campaign.  Yes, funny can be sexy, but a hot man in nice clothes is always sexy. [Towleroad]

Not long ago your Stylelist reported the looming (re)trend of thermochromatic t-shirts (that's Hypercolor for all you 80's kids).  Well, never ones to miss out on a hipster trend, American Apparel has their own version for only $34!  Now all I need to do is dig around in my closet for those acid-washed jeans of mine...[Fabsugar]

Tumi is expanding its T-tech line with a full outerwear and bags.  Perfect, because a wrinkle-resistant cotton blazer is just what my monthly camping trips have been missing. [DNR]

Renzo Rosso, the big guy behind Diesel, has acquired a major stake in darling Dutch design team, Viktor & Rolf. A huge merger to say the least, the possibilities are exciting, as long as Rosso doesn't get to carried away with the overly-edged Diesel aesthetic. [WWD]

Have Daniel and Wesley of this season's Project Runway found themselves in their own runway romance?  According to their MySpace pages, they just might have. [Towleroad]

-- SETH PLATTNER

Karl Lagerfeld Designs Dubai; A New Posterboy for Armani Already?; Gossip Girl Gossip: Ed Westwick To Design His Own Line?; Leo DiCaprio Tells Time for Charity; The Linda Farrow and Yohji Yamamoto Collaboration

Photo: Getty Images

Karl Lagerfeld is designing a few limited edition homes for Isla Moda, a fashion inspired (and seemingly fashion only) community under construction in Dubai.    [The Cut]

It seems like the Armani underwear ads with Mr. Becks have just reached their boiling point, but the label has already announced their new model for the Fall 08 ads.  His name is Takeshi Kaneshiro, and he is oh so delicious--and also the first Asian model for a major Armani ad campaign.  Hooray for diversity! [Fashionista]

Yes, everyone--another celebrity fashion line.  This time from Gossip Girl cast member Ed Westwick, who plays conniving and annoyingly over-the-top Chuck.  He says he wants to add his "two cents" to the label he wore for his Vanity Fair shoot, which would imply either Thom Browne or Jack Spade.  While we are more intrigued (and way excited) about the rumors that he and Chace Crawford (Nate) are real life lovers, we still have much higher hopes for his collaboration than Perez Hilton for Hot Topic.  Bleh. [Fashionista] 

Leonardo DiCaprio is working with his favorite watch designer, Jaeger-LeCoultre, to design time pieces for the Time to Care program, as well as develop a couple more to benefit the Leonardo DiCaprio Fund at the California Community Foundation. The timepieces will debut in fall 2008, and all proceeds from the sales will directly benefit the cause.  I'm moved by his initiative, but being that they retail for $300,000-400,000, I'm not feeling so charitable. [Fashion Week Daily]

Known and respected since the 70s, Linda Farrow sunglasses are known for a dark intense aesthetic that continues to peak the interest of the industry and consumers.  Now, the label is set to collaborate with Yohji Yomamoto in a pairing that is as exciting as it is ambiguous. [Refinery 29]

-- SETH PLATTNER

Dangerous Natural Beauty; Yohji Goes to China; Banana Republic's Sweatshop Scandal; Paula Abdul Loves Rami Kashou and Chocolate

Photo: Getty Images

Not all natural products are good for you. A study found that many products— including Jason, Kiss My Face, Jason and Whole Foods-branded products— contained a carcinogenic byproduct called 1,4-Dioxane. Stick to munching your organic foods instead and driving your hybrid. [WWD]

Yohji Yamamoto plans to follow in the high-heeled footsteps of Americas Next Top Model and Fendi by staging a fashion show in Beijing's Forbidden City next month. Fendi staged a show on the Great Wall last year and ANTM filmed a runways show in the same location as Yamamoto's show during it's 9th season. What's most awkward about the fashion show is not the lack of Tyra Banks but the politics behind the show. WWD reports, "Yamamoto is organizing the show in collaboration with the Chinese government and will use the occasion as a personal apology to the Chinese people for Japan's atrocities during its World War II invasion." Seriously. [The Cut]

Banana Republic and GAP Inc. are up against more allegations of poor working conditions for the factory workers that produce clothes for the company. Banana Republic responded today saying that it will launch its own investigation into the allegations, and find lesser known factories that know better than to complain about child labor and long hours if they know what's good for them. [WWD]

Paula Abdul purchased Rami Kashou's Hershey's challenge dress from Project Runway for almost $3,000 in a charity auction. She said she would probably wear it on Halloween but I wouldn't be surprised if that crazy bitch showed up on American Idol with it because it's a Tuesday. For her, every day is Halloween. [The Cut]

On The Runway: Y-3 Fall/Winter 2008

All Photos: Getty Images

As if New York City wasn't cold enough, Yohji Yamamoto decided to import huge blocks of ice into a parking garage at Pier 40 on Manhattan's West Side for his Y-3 collection for Adidas.

After handing out fleece blankets and hand warmers, the show began with a mix of cherry reds and tartan plaids. The authority of sporty chic produced an amazing show (although I couldn't feel my toes) and at least the collection was hot—even if spectators needed a little thawing out after. —Seth Howard

More photos after the jump!

 

Valentino Heads to the Middle East; Topshop in NYC; Duran Duran on Broadway; Paris Hilton Style Thief?

While Yohji Yamamoto and Karl Lagerfeld head to the Far East to show their collections, Valentino announced yesterday that he will show his final Spring 2008 collection again...(wait for it)...in the Middle East. The designer plans to show during Abu Dhabi's fashion week on November 17th...what retirement? [Fashionista]

Topshop, the UK's answer to H&M and purveyors of Kate Moss' fashion dabblings, is rumored to have found a stateside home in the heart of NYC's SoHo neighborhood. Except no one told long-time Soho resident store, Yellow Rat Bastard, who currently resides at Topshop's rumored Manhattan address. [Fashion Week Daily]

Here's the strangest story of the day: The has-been 80s band Duran Duran (yes, I said it.) is performing on Broadway; Their clothes are designed by Juicy Couture; Celebrities plan to attend opening night; They have a story in WWD. Is this the twilight zone? [WWD]

Paris Hilton is being sued by a woman who claims the heiress stole her style...and claims emotional distress. Seriously? According to Fashionista, the woman alleges that Hilton "stole O'Neill's idea to expose her underwear under her trousers. O'Neill also claims Paris swiped her idea to shop in vintage stores for retro dresses." I didn't realize that dressing like a slut or wearing vintage clothes were registered trademarks. [Fashionista]

Yohji Goes to China; GAP Faces Child Labor Allegations; Marc Jacobs Goes Blue; Tom Ford

Photo: Getty Images

Yohji Yamamoto will follow in Karl Lagerfeld's footsteps and stage a fashion show for his Y's line in China at the invitation of the Chinese government. [WWD]

Is GAP using child labor to make their clothes? New allegations published by The Guardian say kids as young as ten are stitching away and the GAP launches a massive investigation. [British Vogue]

Marc Jacobs catches the Halloween spirit and dyes his hair blue. Perhaps he's dressing as a smurf? [NY Mag]

Is Tom Ford an environmentalist? In order to prevent any mining on his New Mexico Ranch, Ford bought the mineral rights to his 1,400 acres. [British Vogue]